Lucky Federal, I often think, playing host to one of the region’s most loved little restaurants.
Doma, since it opened its doors, has established a cult following for its fabulous, often
quirky Japanese food served up in pretty surroundings, utterly free of pretension, small
groups lounging outside on the grass, children playing happily. It’s back to serving dinners
now two nights a week, all the more reason to envy those Federalites who don’t have to
navigate the narrow twisty country roads in the dark to reach it.
All the more reason, too, to be thankful for Japanese Kitchen’s presence at the farmers’
market. I am chatting to Takayuki, chef and owner, whose easy warmth and humility are so
evident in the beautiful food his team dispenses. His affection for the farmers’ market,
where it all began – before Doma, before Qudo in Bellingen – is as strong as ever, and he
relishes every opportunity to get back behind the stall. ‘I always love to work there’, he
says, one of the reasons being a desire to change the menu a little. ‘It’s why I want to get
back to working there’, he tells me, citing less sushi and more breakfast-style dishes as some
of the changes.
More, then, along the lines of those brown rice sushi cones. Wildly popular, they’re not only
visually gorgeous and explosively tasty but also super healthy, no sugar added to the rice, all
organic ingredients. Obliged to utilise produce and products as local as possible has meant
some distinctly un-Japanese creations – halloumi in the sushi, for example – whose success
stems clearly from the clever creator behind them. And after decades, Taka’s favourite food
remains sushi.
Japanese Kitchen can be found every Friday at Mullumbimby Farmers Market from 7 –
11am
Victoria Cosford
.
